Sunday, November 16, 2008

Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 93: A Self Guided Bicycle Tour of Historic Jackson St. Part 5: 1100 to 1500 Blocks

1100 to 1500 Blocks

Trinity Lutheran Church – 1122 Jackson
Built in 1920 this church is an example of Gothic Revival architectural style, Trinity Lutheran Church was constructed by the Lytle Co., a local design and contracting firm. The building features large stained glass windows and two, tall bell towers. This church remains in use by the Trinity Lutheran congregation.
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Central High School – 615 12th St.
Built in 1893: additions in 1913 and 1930. The address for this prominent building is not actually on Jackson, but the east side of the building has Jackson St. as one of the borders. The school spans from 12th to 11th Streets north to south and Jackson to Nebraska Streets east to west. The building was designed by F. S. Allen architect from Joliet, Illinois. The building is an excellent example of the Richardsonian Romanesque architecture style and features castellated towers and cornice line, rough cut Lake Superior brownstone and arches over the entrances. The school was closed in 1972, and in 2001 the building was completely restored and converted into apartments.
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Ye Old Tavern – 1322 Jackson St.
Built in 1934, it was in this building that Abraham “Abe” Kaled and his wife, Bertha, invented the “tavern” sandwich. Abe came to the United States in 1907 from Syria. The Kaled’s operated Ye Old Tavern at this location from 1934 until 1971. The building is now Gus's Family Resteraunt.
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W. H. Sammons House – 1507 Jackson St.
Built in 1902 this Queen Anne style home was built for William H. Sammons, longtime president of the Sioux City Journal. In 1882, Sammons began working for the Journal owner/publisher, George Perkins. He later married Perkins’ daughter Clara. Upon the death of George Perkins, Sammons became president of the company. He resided here until his death in 1944 at which time his daughter, Elizabeth, took ownership of the house. The home remained in the Sammons family until 1963.
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Wallace Short House – 1520 Jackson St.
Built in 1893 this Queen Anne style home has retained some of its original character. Wallace Short lived in this home from 1910 to 1912. He came to Sioux City in 1910 as a Pastor of the First Congregational Church and was one of Sioux City’s most colorful figures. Due to his strong opposition to Prohibition and his support of organized labor, he was forced to resign as Pastor in 1914. The following year he organized Central Church and in 1918 was elected Mayor at the head of a labor supported ticket. Short’s “wet” stance and close affiliation with the union movement drew heated criticism form the local business community. In 1919 his opponent succeeded in forcing the only recall election in city history, but failed to remove him from office. Short went on to serve two more terms as Mayor and was one of Iowa’s most influential labor leaders for the remainder of his life.
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Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 92: A Self Guided Bicycle Tour of Historic Jackson St. Part 4: The Tour Begins

500 to 900 Blocks

As you tour Jackson, keep in mind that most of the properties are privately owned. Please view the residences from the public street or sidewalk. We hope you enjoy the tour.

The self guided bicycle tour begins at 9th and Jackson Streets. But there were prominent houses between 5th and 9th Streets at one time. This high hill overlooking downtown and the Missouri River bottoms is known as Codfish or Plateau Hill. Many of the fine homes built here by the city’s early businessmen reflected the style and economic success and high social standing.

They included Daniel Hedges, the early developer who lived at 518 Jackson. Will H. Beck, jewler, occupied the home that was at 721 Jackson, later building a home at 2619 Jackson. George Kingsnorth who came here in 1859, served as sheriff, Marshall and Mayor, and died in 1933 at his home at 804 Jackson.

Narcisse Desparois, a bridge builder, built a grand Italianate home at 815 Jackson. George Perkins, founder of the Sioux City Journal owned a large brick mansion at 820 Jackson.

The homes from the 500 block north to the 800 block of Jackson are no longer there. Instead apartment buildings and commercial businesses have been built in their place.

The only surviving home from this period is the Knott house at 914 Jackson built by one of the earliest physicians.
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900 Block

Dr. J. M. Knott House – 914 Jackson St.
Built in 1887 this Queen Anne styled home was constructed at the height of Sioux City’s boom period, when each fall, five great Corn Palaces were built from 1887 to 1891. This was the longtime residence of Dr. John M. Knott, one of Sioux City’s prominent physicians. He was known among locals as the “dean of medical men”.

After serving in the Civil War, Dr. Knott attended medical school in Washington D. C. and graduated in 1870. Later, he met Dr. Beggs, a Sioux Citian who convinced him to move to Sioux City. He resided in the home until 1917.

Many of today’s Queen Anne homes have been painted white and therefore much of the intricate architectural detailing is lost. By painting the home 4 or 5 colors, man of its architectural features are highlighted. Of particular interest are the original stained glass windows.
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First Church of Christ Scientist – 920 Jackson St.
Built in 1921 the First Church of Christ Scientist was designed in the Gothic Revival style by Wilfred W. Beach Company, architects. This prominent building was constructed using the Bedford limestone and features a large stained glass rose window above the front entry. The north and south side of the church features four distinct bays with Gothic arched stained glass windows. Each with decorative tracery and separated by buttress supports.
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Thursday, November 13, 2008

Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 91: A Self Guided Bicycle Tour of Historic Jackson St. Part 3: Architects and Architectural Styles

Architects:
Architects that resided in Sioux City designed several of the residences found along Jackson Street. The following is background information on these designers.

Wilfred Warren Beach:
Born November 1872 in Alton, Iowa. He attended the University of Illinois from 1894 to 1898 and worked for Josselyn and Taylor of Cedar Rapids, before coming to Sioux City. By 1910, his primary work awas writing architectural specifications for architects in Chicago and New York City, and at one time he formed a partnership with William Steels. His mottos was, “better buildings in less time at lower costs.” Specializing in commercial and public buildings, Beach is credited with designing many prominent Sioux City buildings including Morningside College’s Lewis Hall, the Knaoo and Spencer warehouse (razed), Hunt School, and the First Church of Christ at 920 Jackson. Beach died in 1937 in Texas and is buried at Sioux City’s Logan Park cemetery.

Beuttler & Arnold:
Forming a partnership between 1912 and 1940, William Beuttler and Ralph Arnold formed one of Sioux City’s most prominent architectural firms. Beuttler & Arnold were credited with designing numerous significant buildings including the Masonic Temple, the U.S. Federal Building, Alee Gymnasium on the Morningside campus, numerous public schools buildings, and several churches including Trinity Lutheran Church at 12th and Jackson Streets.

Charles P. Brown:
Born March 1855 in Salem, Mass. He apprenticed in Boston until 1873 when he moved to Detroit to work with E. E. Myers who designed the Michigan State Capital Building. In 1886 he moved to Sioux City and in 1895 was placed in an asylum in Salt Lake City, Utah. His business was taken over by William McLaughlin. Structures that he designed include the Cathedral of the Epiphany, 1890 and 1891 Corn Palaces, the Krumann Block and the Peirce home at 2900 Jackson St.

E. W. Loft:
Born in 1854 in Dubuque, Iowa, E. W. Loft had no formal university or apprentice training. He moved to Sioux City from Cherokee, Iowa in 1881 and is credited with designing the Bay State Block, the Boston Block and the Plymouth Block in downtown Sioux City’s 4th Street Historic District. . He also designed the 1887 through 1889 Corn Palaces. He lived at 2101 Jackson. Upon Loft’s death in July 1890 of tuberculosis, Willam McLaughlin took over his architectural firm.

William D. McLaughlin:
Born May 1864 in Baltimore, Maryland. McLaughlin apprenticed under Baltimore architect E. G. Land before moving to Minnesota. In 1890 he came to Sioux City and formed a partnership with E. W. Loft. Notable accomplishments include the design of St. Joseph Catholic Church, Livestock Exchange Building (burned), Security National Bank (razed), and he Myius-Eaton house at 2900 Jackson Street. He committed suicide January 18, 1897.

William Labarth Steele:
Born May 1875 in Springfield, Illinois. He graduated from the University of Il;linois in 1896. Much of his training was in Chicago under famed architect Lewis Sullivan, who also trained with Frank Lloyd Wright. In 1904 Steele moved to Sioux City to work for, and later form a partnership with W. W. Beach. Steele designed dozens of homes and buildings, and many of these structures are now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A few of his designs include the Woodbury County Courthouse, th eWilleges building in downtown Sioux City, and several of the city’s Branch Libraries. For a time he lived at 2512 Jackson Street. In 1928 Steele moved to Omaha and died in 1949.

Architectural Styles:

Jackson Street displays a wealth of architectural styles. To help you identify the characteristics that separate one from another, below the styles are listed by age. These are the common styles found throughout Sioux City. If you would like to explore these and others in more detail, refer to A Field Guide to American Houses by Virginia and Lee McAlester.

Classic Revival (1820 – 1880)
• Entry porch dominates the front façade
• Porch features simple columns and a prominate center gable
• A semi-circular or elliptical fan light occurs above the front door
• Windows are aligned horizontally and vertically in symmetrical rows

Stick (1860 – 1890)
• Wooden rail cladding (shingles or board) interrupted by patterns of horizontal, vertical or diagonal boards (stickwork) raised from wall surfaces
• Porches commonly show diagonal or curved braces
• Gabled roof usually steeply pitched with cross gables
• Gables commonly show decorated trusses at apex
• Overhanging eaves usually with exposed rafter ends

Richardsonian Romanesque (1880 – 1900)
• Stone walls with a rough, bumpy feel
• Arches over windows and entrances
• Towers with battlements
• Sometimes decorative stone carving such as flowers, leaves, animals

Queen Anne (1880 – 1910)
• Steeply pitched roofs or irregular shapes
• Patterned shingles
• Partial or full-width front porches
• Applied wood decorations & stained glass

Colonial Revival (1880 – 1955)
• Accentuated front door with decorative pediment
• Columns or pilasters
• Doors commonly have overhead fan window or side lights
• Door usually centered on front façade
• Windows with double hung sashes, usually with multi-pane glazing

Dutch Colonial Revival (1880 – 1940)
• Front facing gambrel roof (barn like roof)
• Nearly full second story
• Entrance usually symmetrical side-lights, sometimes beside door
• Entry porch supported by round columns

Italian Renaissance (1890 – 1935)
• Low pitched roof (flat in some examples)
• Roof typically covered by clay tiles
• Upper story windows smaller and less elaborate than windows below
• Arches common above doors, first story windows or porches
• Entrance area usually accentuated by small classical columns

Tudor Revival (1890 – 1940)
• Steeply pitched gabled roof
• Decorative (not structural) half timbering
• Tall, narrow windows, usually in groups and with multi-panes
• Massive chimneys commonly crowned by decorative chimney pots
• Exterior walls are commonly stucco, brick, stone or wood

Mission (1890 – 1920)
• Decorative dormer wall or roof parapet
• Red tile roof covering is common
• Square piers supporting front porch
• Exterior walls usually stuccoed

Prairie Style (1900 – 1920)
• Low, long appearance
• Low-pitched roof, gently sloping
• Widley overhanging eaves
• Often massive square porch supports
Foursquare (a sub category)
• Simple square or rectangular plan
• Low pitched roof symmetrical façade
• Entrance may be centered or off-centered
• Front porch usually extends full length of house

Craftsman or California Bungalows (1905 – 1930)
• Low-pitched, gabled roof
• Exposed roof rafters (rafter tails)
• Decorative braces commonly added under gables (knee braces)
• Porches either full or partial width with roof supported by tapered or square columns

Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 90: A Self Guided Bicycle Tour of Historic Jackson St. Part 2: Dedication, Acknowledgments...

...and Bibliography


Dedication:
This tour is dedicated to the entrepreneurs and promoters who had a vision, the architects and designers who put a plan to the vision, the contractors and developers who gave the vision form and the individuals who inhabited the structures and infused them with their hopes and memories. Lastly, to the grand homes that have gone before.

Acknowledgments:
Collaborative efforts of the Sioux City Historic Preservation Commission, staff of the Sioux City Public Museum, and members of the Sioux City Museum and Historical Association supported development of this tour.

Historical Preservation Commission
Bob coacher, Chair
Jim Jung, Vice Chair
Matt Anderson

Sioux City Public Museum Staff
Grace Linden
Tom Munson

Sioux City Museum and Historical Association
Patt Brenden, President
Gretchen Schlage

Bibliography:
A Field Guide to American Houses. Virginia and Lee McAlester, 2002
History of Counties of Woodbury and Plymouth, Iowa. Warner and Co. Publishers, 1890
Sanborn Fire Maps
Sioux City: An Architectural View. Marilyn Laufer, Edward Storm, Scott Sorensen eds. 1988
Sioux City: A Pictoral History. Scott Sorensen and B. Paul Chicoine, 1982
Sioux City Public Library
Sioux City Public Museum
Sioux City Directories. 1886 to 1943
What Style is It. John C. Poppeliere, S. Allen Chambers Jr., Nancy B. Schwartz 1983
Woodbury County. Clerk & Recorders Office. Property Transfer Records

Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 89: A Self Guided Bicycle Tour of Historic Jackson St. Part 1: Introduction and Short History

Introduction:

The goal of this project was to introduce buildings and homes along Sioux City’s Jackson Street that reflected unique architectural styles or were the homes of prominent residents. As work progressed on background research of selected residences, the project began to take a life of its own. The history of Jackson Street read as a who’s who of the city, and it became difficult to exclude any structures.

None of the original owners or their families currently reside in the homes, and the majority of the families have left the city. These structures are a legacy that should be carefully overseen, protected and preserved for the future. Once gone, structures of this quality will not return.

The information in this blog post, taken from the booklet Legacy of the Past A Self-Guided Driving Tour of Historic Jackson Street Sioux City, Iowa, is designed to guide the reader on a trip to another era. Go back to a time when life was simple, the pace was slower and spending time with the family on a Sunday afternoon was commonplace. A church picnic, a concert in the park or a walk down the street was fun and exciting.

After riding the route on your bicycle, a vibrant part of Sioux City history will become a part of the participant’s life. If only the buildings could speak of all the untold stories and events that went on inside their walls.

A Short History of Jackson Street:

Jackson Street is a north/south street that starts in downtown about 3 or blocks north of the Missouri River and runs north and terminates at 39th Street near the Sioux City Country Club. The area from about 7th and Jackson Streets south into downtown 99% is commercial, from 7th and Jackson north is 99% residential as it travels through the hilly residential area of the city. Jackson Street is listed on the Second Plat of Sioux City in the SIOUX CITY EAST EDITION area of the city. County recorder, Samuel H. Cassady recorder the plat on September 16, 1856. There is speculation the street was named for President Andrew Jackson. It was more likely named for James A. Jackson, son in law of Dr. John K. Cook, Sioux City’s founder, who platted the city in the winter of 1854-1855.

In the 1860’s and 1870’s Jackson was mostly residential with the exception of the commercial section between 4th St. and the river. Originally homes extended as far as the 500 block. Gradually business development combined with the desire for newer style homes pushed the residential neighborhood further north. At 6th and Jackson a steep incline flattens out between 7th and 8th Streets. This area is known as Codfish or Plateau Hill. In the 1860’s only well to do families could afford homes overlooking the Missouri River bottoms.

By 1883, Sioux City’s boundaries had only grown a small amount since the original plat in 1854, making the northern most boundary of Sioux City around 14th and Jackson. City ordinances between 1887 and 1890, however, approved the grading o fJackson from downtown north to 39th Street. In 1884 at the cost of $0.15 per cubic yard, the cutting through Jackson, Pierce, Jones and Nebraska Streets totaled $300,000.

Land Developers were quick to realize this area could be developed as a residential area for prominent families. They began buying sections or additions of land north of the city limits. This allowed millionaires to start building their mansions on the upper reaches of Jackson. By 1890 city boundaries leaped northward and reached the Plymouth County line.

William E. Higman purchased the first and second additions north of 14th St. in 1881 and 1882, from 14th to 21st Streets. The second addition Higman purchased was known as Higman’s Second Addition. Higman did not live on Jackson Street, but was important to its development. He was born in 1846 in Corning, Steuban County New York, his first business experience was in banking. After that he was in the wholesale grocery business which he operated in Sioux City from 1880 to 1884. After which he was in the real estate business and in 1890 was one of the organizers of the National Bank of Sioux City, one of Iowa’s largest banks at one time.

In 1884the next addition on Jackson was the Daniel T. Hedge’s addition from 21st to 23rd Streets. Higman’s Park was added in 1887 and included the streets from 23rd to 28th. The last addition was John Peirce’s from 28th to 38th Streets.

Developers John Peirce and Daniel Hedges foresaw the need for public transit and went about building a cable car company. Work on Iowa’s first cable car line designed by A. M. Phoenix began in in Sioux City in 1888. It was designed after the one in San Francisco and transported people from the business district to the newly opened residential area. After ceremonies on May 30, 1889 the first passengers were transported from 3rd and Jackson to 29th and Jackson. Cars were operated by a grip man in the center of the car who would manipulate the clutch. Rides were $0.05 a piece. Molly hedges, daughter of Daniel Hedges, drove the first car down the street. A few years later the line was extended to the Country Club property where the cars reversed and went back down the line. There was a gazebo at the end of Jackson Street where passengers could have refreshments and enjoy the view of the rolling hills of the Country Club district. The cable car powerhouse, fueled by coal, was located a block east of Jackson between 298th and 29th and Jones. Today, a pile of coal sludge or cinder is all that remains of the cable railway and can still be seen at 28th and Jones. In 1894 the cable line became part of the city’s electric streetcar system.

John Peirce saw the need for sprucing up Jackson to make it more appealing to prospective buyers. Therefore, he began the Sioux City Nursery Company and planted trees along Jackson long before houses were built.

Sioux City’s history is reflected in the growth of Jackson. The earliest settlers lived close to the downtown district as a necessity, moving north as newer areas opened up. As the public transportation transit system progressed from mule drawn streetcars to the cable car system, homes began to appear built as far up as 29th Street by businessmen. The panic of 1893 bankrupted many developers built and slowed the progress of building until the early 20th Century. After 1900, homes were being built along Jackson as far up as 38th Street, but were more modest then the mansions of the early boom period. Following WWII were even smaller, sometimes one story homes, were built.

Gone were the large homes surrounded by the acres of pastureland. During the early decades of the 20th Century the use of automobiles increased, which resulted in a corresponding reduction in the use of horses and the need for barns. Gradually owners of large tracts of pasture sold off this excess land. Individuals purchasing these vacant parcels were typically of more modest economic means than their Victorian predecessors, and the homes they constructed reflected their financial standing. As you ride bike along Jackson take note of this transformation. Frequently you will see large Victorian homes standing adjacent to smaller more modern looking residences. This is especially evident in the blocks north of 19th Street.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 88: Sioux CIty's Haunted History Part 10: Graceland Park Cemetery

Graceland Park Cemetery is one of the largest, if not the largest cemetery in Sioux City. It has over 25,000 graves and is huge. It is filled with odd stones, has a unique history and there is a former Iowa governor buried there. It is for these reasons the cemetery has numerous visitors each year. Many of those visitors believe the cemetery to be haunted.

Here is what is reported to happen within the boundaries of the cemetery:
1. Cameras mysteriously stop functioning while inside the graveyard.
2. Strange orbs of light have appeared on the film and/or photo’s of those who are able to get their caeras to work.
3. Visitors experience disorientation while walking in the cemetery.

History:
1909 – The Graceland Park Cemtery was established by A. M. Jackson.
1912 – The Graceland Park Chapel was built for $32,800.
1917 – A white marble mausoleum was constructed at a price of over $100,000.
1943 – Mr. Jackson passed away. The cemetery began to decline.
1951 – The cemetery was paced into receivership. A lawsuit was brought against the Graceland Cemetery Association alleging misappropriations of funds. To resolve the suit, Mr. Snyder was appointed as a receiver.
1953 – The Graceland Cemetery Association was reorganized to look into transferring the cemetery to the city. The city accepted ownership of Graceland Cemetery.

Other Details:
Graceland Park Cemetery was designed by landscape architect Charles M. Finley.

During the early 1900’s Graceland Cemetery was so highly regarded that people came from hundreds of miles away to purchase a plot.

Thousands of people came from neighboring states to witness the dedication of the mausoleum. The main address during the dedication was deliverd by Iowa Governor W. L. Harding.

College kids call for information about the cemetery being haunted.

Paranormal investigators claim to have captured strange orbs on their film.

When I was in the cemetery my wife and I were driving through it in our Jeep. We would stop to get out to take photo’s. The camera worked fine. I did not experience any disorientation, but my wife did. She stated as much with out me asking and with out knowing this is what people experience in the cemetery. After she told me she felt this way I explained this is what others have experienced and why they think it is haunted. What I have experienced is when I have ridden bike by the cemetery on South Lakeport Rd. When doing so I have felt a slight disorientation and also what felt like something pulling me toward the cemetery, like something wanted me to turn in to enter through the gates. I never really put it together as to why this happened until I discovered it is haunted.

As I stated the camera worked fine. There are some photo's that look like they have orbs of light in them. See for yourself.
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Sioux City History and Culture by Bicycle Part 87: Sioux CIty's Haunted History Part 9: Morningside College's Dimmit Hall

On the campus of Morningside College is an 384 student, 15 floor residence hall called Dimmit Hall. It is one of the largest on the campus. It is unique compared to all of the other residence halls because it features: Large recreation room with big screen TV, pool table, ping pong table, and foosball, large community kitchen, utility/kitchenette rooms on most floors, nice TV lounges, a sun deck, beautiful formal lounge for community gatherings, sorority and fraternity halls, very Social and close to Elwood Olsen Stadium and Allee Gymnasium.

But those things are not the most unique feature Dimmit Hall has to offer. It is also unique because it is haunted by the ghost of a student. The student, a female, commited suicide on her the women's side of the building in an area called the hidden hall. So named because there is no entrance to the outside. A person has to go up or down a level to get out of that area of the building. She hanged herself on the old heating pipes in her room. Residents of her room claim to hear a girls voice and gagging and choking sounds at night while they are studying. They've opened the door thinking a a hall mate is playing a joke and yell down the hall for it to stop, but no one else is there when this is happening. Other women students claim to have seen a modertly dressed young woman walking slowly down the hall sniffling and crying and walking through a door into the haunted room.

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